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| Center Israel Tours:
TA Boardwalk - Boardwalking on a sunny afternoon
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By: LYDIA AISENBERG
Photo : LYDIA AISENBERG |
Once a
delapidated area, the Tel Aviv boardwalk has been transformed into a
trendy hub of leisure activity. It's the beginning of March, a Friday
afternoon, Purim and spring are in the air
The port of Tel Aviv was built by Jewish laborers during the British
Mandate in the 1930s to thwart a threat to choke the economy in the
Jewish sector of Palestine by striking Arab dockworkers in neighboring
Jaffa. The Jaffa port strike and rioting throughout the country in l936
were designed to bring down the economy and curtail Jewish immigration
to the country.
Although the construction of Tel Aviv port was one of the most lauded
pre-state Zionist projects, by the mid l960s it became obsolete with
the opening of Ashdod port. Most of the hundreds of warehouses, boat
building and repair workshops and offices of the once-vibrant docks
became derelict eyesores on the city's shoreline, against the backdrop
of smoke billowing from the Reading power station.
Fast forward to the new millennium and there is little evidence of the
dilapidated post-sixties state of affairs - or the undesirables who
frequented the area until massive redevelopment began in earnest some
two decades ago. For the first decade the renewal project moved slowly,
but in latter years the work has picked up momentum.
The renovated warehouse clubs and pubs are now packed with trendy young
people partying the night away, or have become classy - if somewhat
pricey - restaurants. Stores selling mainly clothing for the sports
fraternity are well frequented, as are the other businesses dealing in
shoes, electronics and kiddies' fashions.
The place that Zionist laborers toiled to build in pre-state days as a
gateway to the world's economy has become a hot-spot of economic boom
for the city that supposedly never sleeps. In addition to the nightlife
options, there's plenty to keep one occupied during daylight hours -
not least the wonder of waves crashing against the breakwaters some 100
meters out and the lapping of water closer to shore.
These days even the 1937-built Reading power station, most of which has
ceased to function as such, shines a light on numerous forms of art in
high-ceilinged galleries created in some of its enormous halls. There
is definitely more to see than meets the eye at Reading these days. The
original iron stairways, ladders and walkways have been renovated, as
have the colorfully painted, cumbersome but strangely attractive
enormous pieces of defunct British machinery. Shiny brass plates boast
names of manufacturers such as Babcock & Wilcox or Herbert
Morris Ltd., leaders of 1920s industry in the industrial north of
England.
Walking past the power station on the opposite side of the Yarkon River
estuary, the chimney doesn't seem quite so monstrous. Decorative
colored lights wrapped around the chimney stack seem to wink
now-you-see-me now-you-don't messages across the water.
A dozen fishermen squat on their heels or sit on tiny fold-up stools,
squinting at their lines bobbing in the water. Alongside the pathway, a
metallic plaque affixed to a concrete bollard is engraved with a
photograph of well- muscled male athletes wearing long white baggy
trousers and vests, warming up for a competition. The sign informs that
this is the site where the first Maccabiah and Tel Aviv outdoor
concerts were held.
A seated fisherman ripples his not-so-well-developed muscles, casts his
line and a split second later there is a plop as bait hits water. But
the fish do not seem to be taking the bait and one fisherman decides to
call it a day, picks up his tackle and empty net, and heads off back
down the path. Before he is out of earshot, one of his friends lets out
a gleeful yell as he yanks a large fish out the river. The fellow with
the empty net lets out a few rich expletives as his peer, grinning
widely, holds his catch aloft.
It's the beginning of March, a Friday afternoon, Purim and spring are
in the air. The sun is out full-force, as are Tel Avivians and visitors
to the city. Walking along the pathway towards the entrance to the old
port where the Yarkon meets the Mediterranean, the first building
spotted from a distance is that of the chocolate paradise called Max
Brenner. The sign seems a little incongruous above the heads of the
passing skaters, bikers, serious runners and slow joggers on their
daily workout.
Popular watering holes in this part of the port are brimming over with
folk relaxing from a hard night or tough working week, as overworked
waiters and waitresses shuttle between packed tables and poorly parked
babies' buggies.
The attractive and kind-to-the-feet wavy wooden boardwalk, modern
arched street lighting, open sandy area for children to romp in and
softly rounded concrete benches make a rewarding afternoon break from
what a few years ago would have been a walk on the wild side. The
boardwalk is a beehive of activity, but surprisingly quiet considering
the number of youth and children on roller-blades making use of the
all-purpose wavy areas to do a few hairy scary tricks, bike riders of
all ages, dog walkers, young parents pushing buggies and a few elderly
folk being gently pushed along in wheelchairs.
The mixture of people walking, riding or whizzing over the boardwalk is
fascinating. There are quite a few local 'posers' out and about - not a
hair out of place despite a blustery wind, dolled up in the latest
fashion and not looking particularly comfortable. A few faces usually
seen on television, the likes of Yair Lapid and Amos Arbel, sporting
personalities whose names are on the tip of the tongue, and minor local
celebs blend in naturally with the rest of the folk on the boardwalk on
the sunny afternoon.
The sun shimmers on the water and a glint catches the corner of an eye.
It is another engraved photographic sign, on a bollard between the
walkway and the sea below. A group of circa l937 workmen - flat cloth
caps perched on their heads, pecs that Becks (That's soccer player
David Beckham, for the uninitiated) would die for, sun tans from
laboring in the sun - watch the modern day parade go by, and seem well
satisfied with how things have turned out.
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