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Israelis
celebrated their 59th Yom Ha'atzmaut, or Independence Day, in late
April, immediately following the annual commemoration of fallen
soldiers. This way they celebrate the nation's re-establishment on May
15, 1948 while also honoring those who fell in battle to create and
defend the state.
One of the fiercest and most important battles of the War of
Independence was the fight for the fortress of Latrun, which commanded
the main road between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. This series of
engagements is important in its own right, and also because some who
fought there went on to become monumental figures. Two would even rise
to the office of prime minister - Yitzhak Rabin and Ariel Sharon.
The fortress at Latrun, and a nearby Trappist monastery, overlook the
scenic Ayalon Valley, about 10 miles west of Jerusalem. Its commanding
location along an ancient route gave it great strategic value, making
it the site of many battles throughout history, going back to biblical
times. Here, Joshua prayed for God to make the sun stand still so he
could finish defeating the Amorites (Joshua 10:12-13). There is also
evidence that Latrun is the site of Emmaus - where Jesus appeared to
two of his disciples after the Resurrection (Luke 24:13-35), and in 167
BCE the Ayalon Valley was where Judah the Maccabi won an important
victory over the Seljuks. The Templars built a fortress there in 1187.
In the late 1930s in Mandatory Palestine, there were a series of riots
by Arab residents against the Jewish community and British rule.
Because of this, the British Army built a series of 'Taggart' forts,
named for the engineer who designed them, which were essentially
fortified police stations at strategic points. Latrun was a natural
site for a Taggart fort due to its view of the main Tel Aviv-Jerusalem
highway. But as the British garrison left Latrun on May 14, 1948, the
Arab Legion of Transjordan moved in, initiating one of the darkest
hours for the new Jewish state.
The Arab Legion used this location to deny Jewish access to Jerusalem,
so its 100,000 Jewish residents began to starve. As one drives along
this route today, one can see the carefully preserved remains of the
crudely armored trucks that were destroyed trying to break the blockade
nearly 60 years ago.
Israeli leader David Ben-Gurion believed that the loss of Jerusalem
would be fatal to the newly established state, so he made a risky
decision to commit scarce military resources to the taking of Latrun.
On May 24, the fortress was assaulted by Israeli forces, including a
young platoon commander named Ariel Sharon. Sharon was severely wounded
during the attack, but because of a tactical decision to retreat, he
lived to fight another day.
The initial assault cost the Arab Legion heavy casualties. A week
later, on June 1, another attempt was launched, and although the outer
defenses were breached, this attack was also repulsed, this time with
heavy losses on both sides. A third attack was repelled in the days
leading up to the first truce of June 11.
Many of the Israeli conscripts were Holocaust survivors who had been
thrown into battle poorly trained and poorly equipped soon after
arriving in the land. Their high casualty rate remains a point of
controversy in Israel to this day.
Despite the fact that the attacks failed to drive out the Arab
Legionnaires, they did prevent the Jordanians from leaving the
fortress, and this bought the Jews the time and space they needed to
carve out an alternative route to the south that lifted the siege of
Jerusalem.
This 'Burma Road' was built by engineers of the new Israeli army, led
by Col. David Marcus, a graduate of West Point and a WWII veteran.
Created by using bulldozers to widen an ancient goat path, the road was
completed just before the first truce went into effect on June 11,
allowing a flow of soldiers, weapons and supplies into West Jerusalem
and quite possibly saving the newborn state.
No further attempts were made to dislodge the Arab Legion from Latrun
during the War of Independence, and so the Latrun salient stayed under
Jordanian control according to the terms of the cease-fire agreement of
1949. Arab snipers made the fort a constant hazard to Jewish travelers
along the Tel Aviv to Jerusalem highway until the 1967 Six- Day War,
when the IDF captured it in one hour.
Because of Latrun's strategic location, there is overwhelming consensus
in Israel that the hilltop will not be relinquished as part of any
settlement of the Israeli- Palestinian conflict. 
Following the 1967 conflict, the Taggart fort was turned into a museum
which today is the central feature of Yad Lashiryon. There are over 150
armored vehicles on the site, from primitive armored cars used in the
1948 war to the latest Israeli-built Merkava Mark IV, the most advanced
battle tank in the world. Armored vehicles from other nations are also
on display, including American, British, French and even Soviet-built
equipment.
Perhaps the most interesting vehicles are two German Panzer tanks
originally used by the Wehrmacht in World War II that fell into the
hands of the Soviet Red Army, were transferred to Syria in the 1950s
and later captured by the IDF in fighting on the Golan.
Other features of the museum include a Wall of Names, where the names
of all the IDF soldiers who have fallen in Israel's wars are inscribed.
A Hall of Honor holds pictures of the fallen and information about who
they were.
The old British police station contains a library and walk-thru museum
where visitors can learn about the history of the IDF Armored Corps and
soldiers can prepare for their future careers. Despite being a museum,
Latrun is still in everyday use as a training, education and resource
center. Much of the material in its library is only accessible to
soldiers with a high security clearance.
A few hundred meters away is the monastery of Latrun, built in 1890 by
Trappist monks from France. The monks are strict vegetarians, have
taken a vow of silence, and support themselves through manual labor.
This includes the production of grapes for the monastery's excellent
wines and olives for the production of olive oil. The monastery is also
a place of pilgrimage for many Christians who come to study on the
quiet grounds, enjoy the beautiful scenery and soak in the rich history
of the area.
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