|
What
better way to What better way to honor fallen soldiers than a visit to
their memorials in the Golan Heights and Mount Hermon.
When the Yom Kippur War broke out in 1973,
21-year-old combat medic Eitan Plonski was called to the northern front. For
over two weeks he treated wounded soldiers with incredible devotion. On October
22, during the second fierce battle for Mount Hermon, he learned that the
company's commander and signal operator had been seriously wounded. Although one
of the soldiers tried to hold him back, certain that in the face of raging fire
he would never make it to his wounded comrades, Eitan forged ahead. Just as he
reached the site, Eitan took a direct, and fatal, bullet to the head.
We may
not recall their names, or have heard about their feats of courage, but
monuments to soldiers who fell in the north, a region that has seen all too many
wars, can help us remember the price they paid. Here are a few memorial sites
that you may want to visit - dedicated to soldiers who lost their lives in the
Yom Kippur War, the Six Day War, and the years before and after.
1. Barely a year has past since that
terrible day in August when 12 reservists were killed by rockets fired from
Lebanon into the Upper Eastern Galilee. They had been standing outside the
cemetery at Kibbutz Kfar Giladi, one of the most symbolic sites in Israel. For
it is at Kfar Giladi that a statue of a roaring lion towers over the grave of
Joseph Trumpeldor, killed defending Tel Hai in 1920. (Trumpeldor is best known
for his legendary last words: 'It is good to die for one's country.')
An
impromptu memorial is a poignant reminder of that catastrophic attack. To find
it, take Highway 90 to Kfar Giladi and turn into the cemetery. While you are
there, visit Trumpeldor's grave, and those of famous Watchmen (shomrim) who
guarded Jewish settlements from Arab attack during the early 20th century.
2. During the Six Day war, the brigade
that had been positioned across from the Golan Heights since 1948 was chosen to
capture the Syrian military base at Tel Faher. Called Golani for its long-term
proximity to the Heights, the brigade fought a ferocious battle overrun with
military error and studded with superhuman feats of bravery. 
Wheelchair-accessible paths lead to the peak of Tel Faher, from which you
can easily view the Jewish settlements below. No doubt that's why the Syrians
chose this hill, and the one in front of it (Tel Aziziat), as military
positions. To reach Tel Faher, Golani troops first had to capture Tel Aziziat.
After tanks and armored personnel carriers were damaged by mines during the
advance, the soldiers continued forward on foot up the hill and into the Syrian
trenches. Tel Aziziat was taken, but Israel had lost the element of surprise.
And due to a mistake in navigation, the men ascended the hill to Tel Faher
directly into waiting Syrian guns. Over half the attack force were killed or
wounded on their way to battle. Remaining troops advanced to the nine-
meter-wide barbed-wire fence and placed explosives, which failed to detonate.
Worried about the time involved in cutting through such a thick wall of wire,
one incredibly brave soldier lay face down atop the wire, enabling the rest of
the force to cross over on his back.
After nearly five hours the Golani
troops succeeded in taking the base, but almost all of the Israeli soldiers were
killed or wounded in the battle.
Today called Mitzpe Golani (Golani
Overlook), Tel Faher is now a living memorial to fallen Golani troops. To get
there, go east on Highway 99, pass the Banyas Nature Reserve, and follow the
sign that appears immediately after you cross the bridge. Don't leave without
walking through the trenches and gazing at the valley below, as if you were a
Syrian soldier. Taped explanations (in English) tell the story of the
battle.
3. Ami Lev-Tov was 35 years old when the
Six Day War began. A major in the reserves, he served as company tank commander
on the ascent of the Golan Heights. While peering out of the turret in an
attempt to direct his men, he was hit by a Syrian shell. He died shortly
afterwards of his wounds.
An unusual monument, dedicated to Ami by his
friends on the very spot where he was fatally wounded, is found off Highway 99
east of the Sa'ar Waterfall. Watch for a field studded with Syrian bunkers: a
cog-wheel stands atop one of them, alongside the hoop that circles the hatch.
4. In 1957, a small unit was formed to
patrol the relatively quiet northern border. But with an increase in enemy
activity, the unit - called the Egoz Patrol - began dealing with terrorists in
an area stretching from Mount Hermon to the Jordan Valley. Soldiers from the
Egoz Patrol participated in both the Six Day and Yom Kippur wars and, in
between, guarded Israel's borders with Jordan, Syria and Lebanon.
A touching
environmental memorial to the 31 men of the Egoz Patrol is located on a hill
along Highway 989 and southwest of Moshe Neveh Ativ. Look for it just beyond the
tomb of Druse Sheikh Ottoman El-Hazuri, near a grove of magnificent oaks.
Scattered along a winding path are 31 individual monuments, each a basalt rock
whose bronze plaque is inscribed with a name, the date on which the soldier lost
his life, and the patrol's symbol. Basalt, transported here from the Golan
Heights, forms a striking contrast to the hill's pale limestone rock.
5. Further north atop Mount Hermon, you
will find a monument to medic Eitan Plonski and three soldiers who fell with him
in battle. Take the ski lift to the upper station; placed there by their
families, the monument consists of a huge basalt rock atop a stone platform.
From here, your breathtaking view takes in Emek Mann, one of several dolinas
on Mount Hermon. Dolinas - small, enclosed limestone valleys - are formed when
rainwater and acid dissolve the surface rock. At the lowest point of this
circular basin there is a large pool of water that local shepherds use to water
their flocks.
6. On the fourth day of the Yom Kippur
War, Syria launched a formidable attack from a valley north of Kuneitra. It
planned to take control of the central Golan Heights and from there move easily
into Israel.
In a bloody day-long battle between massive Syrian armored
forces and a handful of Israeli tanks, exhausted reservists led by battalion
commander Avigdor Kahalani won the day. Over 500 destroyed Syrian tanks and
armored personnel carriers were left behind when the Syrians retreated - and the
Syrian offensive was effectively halted. The battleground is known today as the
Valley of Tears. To get there, take Highway 98 between Bukata and Kibbutz Merom
Golan and take the road at El Rom Junction.
Trees at the site, which was
prepared by the Jewish National Fund, were planted in memory of the soldiers
from the 77th regiment who fought - and fell - in the valley. Their names are
written in Hebrew on plaques below the trees and in one central monument. The
memorial site is called Oz 77: 'Oz' is the Hebrew word for 'strength.'
Four
stone plaques, leaning against a wall of basalt rock, stand in a lovely Jewish
National Fund picnic and recreation area at the entrance to Kibbutz Ein Zivan
(at the intersection of Highways 91 and 98). Inscribed on the plaques are the
names of 35 fallen soldiers from the 134th squadron which fought Syrians and
Iraqis in the first weeks of the Yom Kippur War. Cedars, generally a symbol of
courage, were planted here to express the continuity of life; a bench
thoughtfully placed nearby offers the opportunity for quiet contemplation.
Follow a path through a field to reach a tank pointed directly at Syria. Climb
onto the platform, part of a Syrian army base, for a great view of the region.
7. Brigade 679 is an army reservist
division that was established in the early 1970s. Called up at the beginning of
the Yom Kippur War after the Syrian army invaded the Golan Heights, the brigade
inflicted heavy casualties on the enemy.
A striking monument to fallen
brigade soldiers - constructed out of parts taken from damaged Syrian tanks -
stands at the entrance to the Jewish National Fund's beautiful Fighters' Forest.
To get there, look for a sign off Highway 91, south of Kibbutz Ortal and just
north of Shipon Junction.
Nearby, picnic tables are shaded by flourishing
cedar and oak trees. Possibly the hawthorn trees, indigenous to Israel, will
already be bearing delicious little apple-like fruit. Picnic tables are
wheelchair accessible.
8. A State of alert was declared along
the border with Syria on March 16, 1962, and settlers headed for their shelters.
For late that night, the IDF intended to hit the heavily fortified Syrian base
of Nokave on the northern shore of Lake Kinneret, one of many outposts from
which Syrian soldiers repeatedly attacked Israeli fishermen plying their trade.
When reinforcements were needed, 19-year-old Golani soldier Ya'acov Dvir
immediately volunteered. His halftrack ran over a mine, but Ya'acov wasn't hurt.
As the action continued, he was asked to clear a minefield and, again, remained
untouched. Nokave was taken by our troops, but as they began to move out they
were shelled heavily by the Syrians on the Heights. When it was all over,
Ya'acov had disappeared.
A memorial now stands on the former Syrian base,
about two and a half kilometers south of Kursi Junction. It commemorates eight
soldiers from the Golani Brigade who fell in battle. The fate of Ya'acov Dvir
remains unknown.
9. At the age of 18, Eran Shamir
volunteered for a year of pre-army service as a guide at the Keshet Yonatan
field school in Kibbutz Keshet (east of Katzrin and south of Keshet Junction on
Highway 87). An avid hiker, Eran was an earnest youth with a passionate love for
this country, its nature, its history and its heritage. He had an affinity for
every rock, flower, tree and animal in the Holy Land, knew the entire Bible by
heart, and ignited his listeners' interest in military valor. The following year
he became a paratrooper, served in a commando unit and soon became an officer.
In 1997, at the age of 23, he was killed in Lebanon.
Eran Shamir is
remembered at Kibbutz Keshet with a scenic drive up a hill to a fantastic
overlook. Signs (in Hebrew) describe the foliage on the hill and explain about
its volcanic rock.
Looking down from the peak, you can view the difference
between the northern and southern Golan Heights: the northern part is
characterized by ever higher volcanic hills, fertile ground for the region's
famous apples and other fruit. The southern Golan features long fields of basalt
rock - perfect for field crops. The reservoirs below, used for crop irrigation,
fill with water from winter floods. Hang onto your hats: it's windy up here!
|